Friday, December 28, 2007

Fuel

I have been playing with different combination of fuel since my thundertiger 36 engine days because it was picky on fuel. Not picky in that sense that it would only run on certain fuel, but rather it only made power on certain fuel. A better way to put it might be that it only made good power when I used fuel containing klot oil.

I have, at one point or another in my life used:

Wildcat helimix 10%
This was cheap and pretty good on power. However, it didn't run quite right with certain combinations of tuned muffler and engine. I can't exactly pin point the issue, but it just was impossible to tune because it had a good top end and idle but an extremely lean mid range. The use of a normal muffler totally solved the leaning mid range. Its easy to detect a lean run with this fuel because the smell of the exhuast fume changes to a pretty pungent smell when the engine is hot. It leave a brown stain on your muffler and engine interior which leads me to suspect a little impurity or castor in the oil.

Wildcat helimix 15%
Its the same price as coolpower 15%, but it felt a lot more powerful than coolpower 15%. Its at least as good as coolpower 20%. Although many flyers claim that wildcat smoke less, I found that it smoke less compared to the red fuel from coolpower(i.e. the 20% and 30%), but more than coolpower 15%. Heck, the smoke doesn't bother me...but it does bother my mum who says its poisonous...it does smell different though. The exhaust fume also smell different when engine is lean. It leaves a brown stain too.

Wildcat 2 &4 Stroke 15%
Was suppose to be the same stuff as helimix 15% except the colour, but I found it to run hotter and leave a bit more brown stain.

Wildcat YP30%
This is probably the best fuel ever made by wildcat. Smooth running, good power and it doesn't leave a brown stain. It doesn't smoke as much as CoolPower30% and maybe even less than CoolPower 20%. I didn't go through a lot of gallons of purely YP30% because its extremely expensive relative to lower nitro % fuel. In airplane applications, it actually does help the engine to gain a few hundred rpm compared to a 20:20mix.

Pro-Glow 15%
This is the most bang for buck fuel I have ever used. It comes in 5litre bottles from australia and cost less than coolpower 15%. It has got 20% klotz fully synthetic oil, but it leaves a brown stain too. Its more powerful than the Wildcat 15% which leads me to suspect that it has got more than 15% nitro. A pity they don't sell it over here anymore. Relatively unknown fuel, but it works GREAT. The fuel originally came in orange colour, it was changed to bright pink at a later period. I prefer the orange colour better.
LINK HERE

Coolpower 10%
As the name suggests, this runs cool, but there is no power to speak of with this fuel. I mix this with the YP30% and it works great at low cost.

Coolpower 15% HV
Cool running fuel with no power to speak off. My engine was running very cool no matter how I tuned it, but it was weak, it got so bad that I crashed after bogging in a continous flip.

Coolpower 15% MV
I have seen other flyers use it and it seems to work better than the HV version. I am using it now to blend with Coolpower 20% to reduce cost of running.

Coolpower Heli Special 20%
This is an exceptionally smooth fuel. I don't run it by itself but am always using it to mix with CP15%MV at a ratio of 2:1, that is 2part 20%, 1part 15%. Its quite expensive compared to other fuel like CP25% or YP30%. The YP30% was only Sin$5 more than the CP20% at the LHS. Although Coolpower claims it has got high viscosity oil, I feel that it actually contains lower viscosity oil because the fuel residue I get after a flight is actually thinner than that from YP30%. Its not powerful, but my engine recovers a lot better from manuveur to manuveur, so in conclusion, I lost a bit of power BUT gain consistency in headspeed when unloaded.

Coolpower 25%
The LHS has been out of this for a while. Its cheaper than CP20% because of the HV oil it contains. Basically, its the same cheaper oil package that is found in CP10% and CP15%HV-The green stuff. It doesn't feel a lot more powerful than coolpower 15% and I really don't feel the power of 25% nitro. Never ran this on a plank to know how it performs.


MYTH of Fuel

You can't Mix Fuel of different Types or Brands?
Hell NO. Regardless of the brand or type of fuel, as long as the fuel comes from a modern fuel manufacturer, THEY ARE ABSOLUTELY AND COMPLETELY MISCIBLE IN EACH OTHER. What this means is that Coolpower will mix well with Wild Cat, no matter if it is the high viscosity stuff or lower viscosity stuff, 10% or 30% nitro. It doesn't matter. Ever wonder how coolpower got multi-viscosity???
I have mixed fuel of different blends and they all work well with no noticeable performance degradation when compared to what their original blends.

Nitro %

Very often, I hear people telling me you can't run 15% or 10% nitro, you need 20% or 30% nitro. That is absolutely BULL SHIT. Whoever tells you that is either being taught the wrong things by the wrong people when they first started or have got some shares in your LHS.
You can actually use 0% -30% nitro with no problem. In fact, you can go up to 40% or 50% and the engine will make insane amount of power, but cost will be insane too. Running lower nitro is all a matter of having the correct shim, plug and needle setting. Lower nitro fuel tend to be harder to tune because needle setting is a lot more narrow, i.e. lean and rich could be just a few clicks away, but it does run. Of course, you are what you eat, your engine is what it drinks. Higher nitro will definately make it more powerful. Some european engines are factory designed for lower nitro like 0% or 5% nitro, those can be made to run on higher nitro with lots of shim and correct plug, BUT they will be extremely difficult to tune. I have ran as low as 10% nitro on my tt36 and tt50 and they both work as it should be.

Heli vs Plane fuel

Another common misconception is that you have to use heli specific fuel in a heli, aero fuel in aero, car fuel in car. That is only true to a certain extend because all of them are made of the SAME components, just in different amount of each. You can't use car fuel in heli or planes because the oil composition is way too low, but you can use heli or plank fuel in car, heli or plank with absolutely no problem. Heli fuel might cause a on-road car to accelerate slower, but it works great for a weekend off-road bashing.
For some brands like coolpower, heli and aero blends are actually the same. The word heli or aero was added solely to make the user feel better, no this is not a joke. As long as it contains 17% or more oil, it will definately work in a heli, plane or car.

High Viscosity vs Low Viscosity oil
High viscosity oil tends to bog the engine down a bit at near max output and I found that lower viscosity oil package actually helps the engine to recover better in between manuvers. However, if one is just hovering or flying around doing loops and roll, the high viscosity stuff should work better because it produces way less smoke and might save you a few $$ for that bling bling upgrade part.


Mix that I found to work great and dun cost much.
I began experimenting with mixing different fuel 3years or so back. Why mix fuel? The answer is to get the best of both world, compromising a bit to save cost-FUN R/C can come cheap too..savings can look to be puny and tiny, but it all adds up. 3$ reduction in cost per gallon will earn you another gallon after just 10gallons...so if you don't need the power...

Don't be shock if you get black fuel from mixing...mixing green and red fuel in certain composition will give a dark coloured end product.

Wildcat Helimix 15% + Coolpower 15% HV
I liked wildcat for its power but thought it ran my engine a bit warmer while coolpower was cool running and yet low on power. So I combined both on a 1:1 ratio mix that gave good power and good temperature.

Wildcat Helimix 15% + Coolpower 25% HV
Same as above, but withCP25%. WHY CP25%? Because its cheaper than even CP 20% heli. With a 1:1 mix, you get 20% nitro and 17.5% oil. Works good for me.

Wild Cat YP30% + CP10%
I buy the YP30% in case and get a 5usd discount per case. I found the best compromise on power vs cost with this fuel is a 1:1 mix for a 20% nitro, 20% oil end product. It will still work good all the way till 2/3CP10% AND 1/3 YP30%.

CP15% + CP20%
2 part 20%, 1 part 15%. Works good and doesn't smoke a lot less than the 20%. This is what I am using now. Less power than the YP30% and CP10% mix, but better recovery in between moves.


Thursday, December 27, 2007

Tail Blades

Since I am not a hardcore 3d flyer and I am flying on a pretty tight budget, I don't really spend too much on tail blades. Till date I have only flown the stock plastic blades, the NHP carbons and the Carbon Tech's. Can I feel the difference between carbon and plastic? I do, but sometimes I wonder if its psychological or real. Carbon tail blades feel tighter in flight, hold slightly better and gives you are "more direct", "more connected" feel.


Plastic

The stock one will work for most form of flying and are extremely durable because they survive impact way way better than carbon ones which tend to blow apart in crashes. Although they feel pretty soft, they actually do tighten up when being spinned up.


NHP

Theses have foam core and are unsealed at the tip, a square tip. The newer generation are sealed and have round tip. Wide cord too. Quite durable compared to the Carbon Tech because they don't chip when they touch grass, but if you touch hard, they SPLIT. Also, I learnt from experience that these have difference thickness and I had a pack that came with 2 blades of different thickness at the root.

Carbon Tech

I am using the Carbon Tech 92/26mm on my raptor. If only the raptor tail grips have got thrust bearings, I will get some 95mm on it because the 92/26mm doesn't seem to be quite enough for fast tic-toc. Its holding fine for 99% of the time. These will require proper landing techniques because they can chip off easily upon touching ground, otherwise a longer and stiffer tail fin wil help a lot too.

RotorTech 610mm

I always thought I suck at flying...but after I started flying these, I realised that it wasn't me, it was the blades. I was using the GCT xpert 620mm prior to these and those were bogging my head badly. There is no doubt that I have never seen my raptor SOAR at that speed before with the GCT's, but cyclic was slow and bogging bad.

With these rotor tech's, I could tic-toc w/o using any form of stick management or restrain. Flip and roll rate improved tremendously. They are practically UNBOGGABLE. Probably the best 600mm class blades.


HOWEVER...


Because of their exceptional light weight, they can't auto for nutz. I have only tried one auto on them and I already promised myself never to auto with them again. There just don't stop falling when I pull and flair at the end of the auto. They feel slightly less poppy and don't seem to bite when you want them to like at the stop in a slapper. It might have something to do with my limited pitch range, I feel. +/-13 should do the trick, but the raptor's mechanism cannot do this.




Finish and quality...

Absolutely no doubt that these are good flying blades, but their finish are not very good. I have only gotten 2 pairs(Thats 4blades for those who can't count..:P) so far but only 1 single blade has been perfect.

In the first pair...2x red ones... one blade was thicker at the root, so it was pretty tight in my blade grip, the other was fine. The one that has a ok fitting root had this little black mark at the root.

In the second pair...one blade(the blue one) had tiny pores on it. The other one is the perfect one. However, their carbon weaves were not very clean.

Kinda sucky when you think how much they are charging you....

The holes can be seen here.
Dirts and imperfection in carbon weavings.


Blue looks way way better, doesn't it?


UPDATE: After some furthur trying, I finally managed to auto with these blades with a soft and smooth landing!!! The key to auto with them is SLOW DESEND AND AMPLE FORWARD SPEED. I found that you can't dive-in to a auto like with other blades that my flying buddies always do because the blades don't produce enough punch at the end of the auto. Furthurmore, unlike the GCT620mm that I was using, you can't gain forward speed after throttle hold, you need to gain it BEFORE and I am talking about slow ff, not fast. A very slow and smooth decend is enough to maintain the headspeed. I guess the 11.5degree at the top end helps a lot too.

DualSky vr-8l regulator & Flightpower evo-rx 1320 2s

I am using a dualsky regualtor because it looks well build, features packed and CHEAP. Sin$28 to be exact. Suppose to be good for 8-10amp, but I guess that is more for a 6v output because at 5v ouput, the heat output is a lot more than at 6v. Still, I would think its way more than enough for my heli because I only draw 2.2amp average and this thing was designed for giant scale planes that have a lot more(and better) servos than my heli.



Key Features
-5v to 6v adjustable output via a little knob/screw at the side-note, its 5-6v not 5v or 6v.
-Large heatsink-weights a hefty 66g
-Dual input and Output leads-No more 3amp limit of the tiny puny servo connector
-Wires come secured and gooped
-Failsafe Switch-A little loose I feel, you can choose not to use it though.
-3LED to tell you status of your LIPO pack
-CHEAP-inline with my idea of budget flying



So why choose flightpower when you want to fly cheap? The reason is because....it comes with with 2 JR output leads. So I have no need to buy 2 pairs of deans and resolder which will make other cheaper packs at least as expensive. Also, I had pretty bad luck with those cheap china lipo when I first started out with electric flight during those 8c lipo days. 1320mah for the light weight. Its good for 4 flight max, but I do 3 so I can land with ample reserve. In any case, I usually only do 3flight per trip to the field, unless its really a nice day.
I first tested it on my old kyosho landmax for fear of the regulator failing me, but it not only survived the vibes and knocks, it didn't seem to mind all the water, oil and nitro too. Got it fixed onto the raptor and started testing it. I have only had 2gallons on it so far, but its working great. Not a single glitch.



Pls Pardon the messy wiring job.




Raptor 50- Setup

Here is what I have in my raptor.

R50 (click below to see more)
OS hyper + Hatori #522
Hitec 635hb on alieron
Hitec 6965hb on elevator and collective
TJ pro + S9254 on throttle
Logictech 6100T
Rotor Tech 610mm main blades
Carbon Tech 95mm tail blades
Flight power evo-rx 2s 1320mah and Dualsky vr-8l regulator

This raptor started out with pretty much all the basic stuff, tt50, stock muffler, S3001 servos, futaba gy502, FG blades...etc etc. I upgraded the electronics and engine along the way because I thought they were limiting my flying a bit. I still have the 635hb on the alieron because its still working, so no point upgrading. Yes, I do feel a big difference between the 6965hb and the 635hb I had on collective and elevator previously, but I am flying on a shoe string budget...so why change something that still work good? And in case anyone is wondering, I don't follow trends, I was already on the hitec 6965hb when futaba 9252 was the only servo to have and hitec was hated badly...

My hyper is getting worn and tired so power is slightly down. Coupled with the fact that I lower my fuel nitro content recently, power is really down. I thought since I can't increase the power furthur, why not reduce the weight? As such, my raptor went through a series of weight reduction.


Flying on a small budget requires minimal upgrades and blings to keep cost low. So I only buy what I feel I need and indeed, these are the stuff that will really give the edge in performance. Furthurmore, plastic is always lighter than metal...I went through a bit of metal this metal that on my old r30v1 and tbh, some upgrades like metal tail pitch arm and tail mounted servos are more like downgrades.

Mod/Upgrades
Metal Headblock-no more rotor hub wear, stiffer head and most importantly, it doesn't crack with high rpm.

Metal washout hub-tightens the control feel.

SUS tail hub. Never had any problem with the stock v2 hub for a good 500+flights on the r30 and r50 combined, but it was a cheap assurance.

TT green paddles-this makes the raptor comes ALIVE.

Red dampers-Prevent boom strikes and gives a more direct feel to the control.

Align 3D carbon fins- No. 1 reason I got them is because they are CHEAP for carbon fins. Saves weight too.

Coke Can shim on one way hub-my hub was locking up randomly, the shim took away the free play on my one way and it doesn't seems to lock anymore.

Canopy screw mod- reference from one of my flying buddy's site
Solved my problem of canopy jumping everything I do a quick pitch reversal.

Kasama mixing level arm

Elevator A arms

Some upgrades that I would like to see for the raptor...I.E. nobody make them...
1. Plastic tail grips with thrust bearings
2. Elevator A arms with bearing supported pivot
3. Redesigned flybar carrier and mixing level for a different flybar ratio and more pitch

Tuesday, December 25, 2007

What I am flying now on a regular basis.

From 90size

UPDATED DEC 2008...STILL A LITTLE OUTDATED THOUGH...

The raptor 50

I fly a raptor 50 every weekend. Why a raptor? Because its cheap, simple and have pretty much nothing that can ever go wrong in flight-reliable. The design is limiting my flying a bit, but I still have got tonnes of stuff that I can't do and the heli can. Through my years of flying, I have found the raptor to be pretty tough, especially the milk bottle canopy. The old v1 that I had was problematic, it had wobbly and loose blade grips, eats clutch for breakfast and so very occasionally throw a tail blade at you. The v2 got all the issues with the v1 sorted out and this is the very reason why I am still flying the raptor today. There is still room for improvement though, I feel.




What I have in the raptor(click here)




The Honey Bee King v2

I had spare servos, I had a spare gyro, I had extra 3s batteries, a esc and motor laying around. Just so unforunately, I chanced upon the honey bee king 2 at that moment and it was less than USD60 at the LHS. So of course I had to have 1. Its sloppy, unstable and the pinion wears fast, but it works and it flies. Although I crash it often, its cheap to crash because parts are dirt cheap.



My king V2 Setup(click here)

Phoenix Funstar(still have everything, but no longer flying it because I can't keep the throttle stick up when inverted...a habit from heli...wonder how the pros do it...)


I was trying to learn to hover a plane and other cool plane tricks, but my old low wing trainer was limiting me badly. I wanted something that was more 3d capable, more agile and lighter. Since I didn't have time to build one, I bought this, a arf that comes even with all the flight controls hinged and pinned. Real cool to see a arf so complete. Its a very nice flying plane and it can be switched between gentle and aggressive at the flip of the dual rate switch. Easier to land than a low wing but requires a bit of power for landing because the thick wing produces quite a bit of drag and its light with little momenturn. Again, its cheap to buy, cheap to setup, cheap to run.


T-REX 700

Was really happy with it, but after a while, minor issues started coming up one after another. No heli is perfect, but some heli designs and flaws just go to show the stupidity, lack of common sense and of course, how cheap, a heli manufacturer can go. Not like I can afford to get a new heli now...oh well.

From 90size

From 90size

From 90size

My 90 size story...

Preparing

and more preparing

Finally got it

Build issue

For some other issues that I have and am too lazy to post, please view my endless ranting on the daddyhobby 700N thread.