Welded muffler.

Got my muffler done at a aluminium welding shop. Works the same as before despite being out of shape. 15flights since the job and it appears to be holding fine.

What happened? I crashed and had to cut the muffler to get it back to shape.

http://shoestringbudgetrc.blogspot.com/2008/02/hatori-522.html

Videos.

Testing the STOCK PLASTIC TAIL BLADES. Never thought I will fly them, but they are actually not that bad as long as I keep the headspeed up. There is definately some improvement with the CF tail blades over the plastic ones. Engine was slightly underpower, but it was good enough for me.


Untitled from Calvin lin on Vimeo.

Funnel


Back when I was running +/-10.5 on pitch and had a under power hyper. The engine ring broke 3flights later.

Upgraded Raptor Elevator A Arms.

Upgraded the A arms. Thought the upgraded ones are metal but alas, I realise they are plastic after I bought them. A lot stronger than the stock ones though.

2 complaints.

1. The holes on the arms for the ball link screw was NOT threaded. It was a bit*h to stuff the screw in.

2. Its ridiculously overpriced. $40 for two pieces of TT plastic arms, personally, I feel thats more like JR spare prices.

I always thought the stock plastic A arm was a bit filmsy and soft which means the swash was going out of phase slightly in flight because the arms were suppose to act as anti rotation for the swash. I saw the arms on some photos of Colin Bell 's raptor 50 which has very minimal upgrades and I thought they probably make a difference. With these, big loops were more straight and requires less corrections, but it could also be due to the fact that I changed the washout linkages and the elevator arms together which took out some slop. Anyway, that is what I have been trying to achieve, so doesn't matter which make the difference.

IMHO, the elevator arm for a heli w/o anti rotation arm should be ball bearing supported at the pivot point.