Tuesday, June 30, 2009

Ino-Lab 760mg, one year down the road...

THEY ARE TOTAL CRAP AND SHOULD BE AVOIDED AT ALL COST.

On my first crash of the 700N, all 3 of them got exceptionally tight to even rotate by hand. A trip the local distro suggested that I might have gotten the servo case screws too tight, which IMHO, is total absolute rubbish because the servos were free before the crash and so the crash just suddenly tightened all the screws? Wow that is some magic. And not the mention that the crash was a super minor one that only cost like less than $300 including blades, which is really cheap for a 90size.

Post repair flights revealed that the ino-lab 760mg that I have are drawing an insane amount of amp in flight. More than 3amp. Considering that I am running 5.1v output on my regulator, a 4amp load on my regulator will mean trying to dissipate (7.8v-5.1v)*4amp=10.8w of heat, which is definately impossible for any R/C regulator in the market now, not even the very expensive ones which have got even smaller heatsink. What that means is that....the insane amount of amp draw resulted in a second crash, from what I thought was servo failure in flight when in reality was just my regulator going into thermal protection.

So how did I know it was the ino-lab and not the rest of the electronics causing the insane amp draw? Two signs...

1. The ino-lab's got exceptionally hot after a flight. Still remember the comment I made about the lack of a heatsink on the ino-lab being the weakest link? It has been proven by yours sincerely that it does indeed need a heatsink to be cool because if even the plastic case can get hot to touch, then the internal motor temperature is obviously going to be molten hot.

2. I shifted them to my raptor 50 and from the average 1.5-1.8amp draw, with just TWO ino-lab 760 on the cyclic, it shot up to over 4amp, 4.5 to be exact. Only god knows where all the current is running to. Perhaps you may wonder, how come the regulator didn't go into thermal protection this time round? Simple. I increased the output voltage to almost 6v, which means a whole lot less heat for the heatsink to move.

As such, this has proven to be an expensive lesson. $246 worth of servo for just 80 or so flights, excluding the cost of the second crash. Painful.

On a side note, this crash has prove to be a blessing in disguise in some other ways, as will come later on....well...a partial change in hobby. In fact, I am considering quitting from all online R/C activities, including the postings and forums....

My flight log for the months of may and june: 1/3 of a gallon in may and june, combined. So few that I have lost count. Oh well, in any case I was already disgusted by the price hike of almost everything at the local hobby shops.

The wreakage...been sitting there for months. Probably engine and bearings are wasted, but who cares. Canopy is semi-repaired by a half arse job.

From 90size
From 90size
From 90size

WAIT A MIN.... YOU CRASHED THE HELI AND ANY SERVO CAN GET DAMAGE IN A CRASH...HOW COME YOU ARE BLAMING THE INO-LAB??

My point is simple. If one or two servo conk out in a serious crash, it is user error. If all three servos fail( and fail in a weird way) from just a light crash that didn't even destroy the canopy, obviously something was not quite right with the servos in the first place. I have seen worse crashes on my raptor and the hitec never had such problem. Hack, even the $20 hitec 325hb on the throttle in the 700N didn't give me any problem after the crash. The futaba BLS251 on the rudder have the tail rod control pulled out from it when the boom ejected upon crash impact and all it took was just a small plastic gear replacement. So how can all 3 servos fail from such light crash?

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