How to fix the phantom tap / multi tap on wp8 nokia 1320

Living with the window phone 8, nokia 1320, I came to understand the reason of phantom taps.

I didn't have any phantom taps issues before I applied a screen protector.

If you are wondering what is phantom taps, you probably do not have this issue.

Phantom taps is when alphabets that are typed out get repeated with just one press. This means, the repetitions are not intended. See below screen shot for an example:



 

I found the issue to be screen sensitivity related. While many users will recommend reducing the screen sensitivity to fix this problem, I suggest that you INCREASE your sensitivity. This works for me.

 

From my usage, I observe the phantom taps issue to be more prominent in the following situations:

- Light touch on the screen

- Tapping the phone while having it on a soft platform, e.g. your bed

- Not tapping sufficient hard

 

The reason behind my phantom touch issue was that the screen protector reduced the touch sensitivity of the phone. When a light press was made, one thinks you have pressed once, but the phone actually recognised it as multiple very short and fast taps.

 

This is because the phone touch screen digitizer probably has a threshold value where below it, a touch is not registered. Above the threshold, a touch is registered. So with a light short tap around the threshold value, the phone may have registered the tap as 2 or 3 taps because it went above the threshold, below the threshold, then above the threshold...a light tap through a screen protector that triggers this issue was probably my problem...



5D Mark III Night Scene ISO Test

Firstly, the experimental setup...5D3 with 24mm L II


Test method: Everything was left on auto, except for aperture at f/8. In hindsight, I should have stopped down more, but I didn't install the shutter release for bulb mode and 30s f/8 iso200 was a good exposure...Shutter speed was determined by camera metering, which I must say is VERY ACCURATE compared to my 50D. Photos are out of camera jpg. I have the raw version, BUT I don't have the raw codec...

Why this test? ISO test in bright day light usually don't tell much. From my limited experience playing with camera(and it really is very limited), typical iso test in bright day light or studio controlled environment seems to be 1-2 stops better than it really is when you need that high iso. That means, the iso performance could be great in great lighting, but much worse in low light. In a way, this renders the high iso performance useless, because one will never shoot high iso with good light and high iso performance in POOR LOW LIGHT CONDITION is where it counts...Of course, proper exposure can significantly help.

So here are the night scene iso test. The 100% crops are taken from the full 22megapixel photos. This is the scene from my bedroom...



In crop 1, the focus will be smearing of detail in the sign board and noise in the background. Good or bad, you decide.
100% Crop 1
ISO200


ISO400


ISO1600


ISO6400


ISO12800


100% Crop 2
Bright and well lit part of the photo...perhaps representative of what you will get with proper exposure...Maybe the details to look for here are the noise in the sky and the sharpness of the building...

ISO200


ISO400


ISO1600


ISO6400


ISO12800


Crop3
It is a medium lit scene in the whole photo. A possible way of comparison is the detail of the brick wall. At high iso, noise control is probably smearing away all the detail of the brick wall.

ISO200


ISO400


ISO1600


ISO6400


ISO12800


Despite the iso capability of 102400, I feel that ISO 12800 has exceeded my minimum requirement for image quality. Therefore, I stopped at ISO 12800. Honestly, I will probably stick so ISO 6400 max for indoor general usage. For landscape, one probably has got a tripod. So perhaps native iso 100 might be the best option.

5D Mark 3 ISO 100% crop and effect of crop on DOF...

Previous post too long liao, lets continue here...all are 100% crop, for whatever reason, the blog can't display full 700 pixel width, so click on the photo to see full 700x700 on flickr.

5D3 ISO 1600...not sure if it is thin dof or oof...


5D3 ISO 6400


50D ISO 1600


50D ISO 3200


EPL2 ISO 1600


EPL2 ISO 3200


Honestly, at pixel level, I feel that the 5D mark III is a crazily huge improvement over the smaller APS-C and M4/3 sensors. However, it is to be noted that the 5D3 and 50D samples were downsized to 8mp and 9mp internally by the camera. I am not so sure what is the effect of downsizing here. The reason for shooting at lower resolution on the 5D3 and 50D is such that the 100% crop are showing roughly the same thing/area of the scene.

The flaw in this ISO test(and probably many other ISO test on review sites) is that the subjects have proper illumination and the 100% crop is not taken out of some shadow region. From my limited exposure to photography, the ISO performance of the shadow region usually tells a different story. Weaker ISO performer are typically exposed in the shadow noise and detail.

As for the DOF test, I tried to maintain a similar subject magnification...

EP-L2 @25mm f/4.4...sorry I don't have a fast lens for M4/3...


50D @50mm f/2.8


5D MARK III @50mm f/2.8


5D MARK III @50mm f/1.4


For DOF and background blurness, there really is no good or bad here. It just depends on what you are doing and what you need.

Maybe I have poor art sense, but here is how I will prefer to shoot the heatsink fan...
EPL2 14mm f/3.5